Exploring the charms of South-Charente: Part 1

Article written by Olivier Demessemakers

As the tourist season winds down and the weather continues to grace us with its warmth, there’s an undeniable allure in taking a moment to explore the enchanting landscapes of this beautiful part of France. Although I’ve visited most places numerous times because they’re ‘just around the corner’ from where we live, we make a concerted effort to venture out regularly, adding a touch of the extraordinary to our everyday life. 

Join me as I share the treasures we’ve uncovered in the South-Charente, each contributing to the uniqueness of our experience. Today, let me introduce you to Aubeterre-sur-Dronne and its monolithic church, undoubtedly the number 1 ‘must see’ in the area.

Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a true gem, captivating every visitor with its picturesque houses perched in an amphitheater shape above the Dronne valley. As you stroll through this charming village, it comes as no surprise that it belongs to the prestigious group of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (The Most Beautiful Villages of France).

The name Aubeterre finds its origin in the term ‘Alba Terra’ (white clay). The stunning old limestone buildings, often adorned with charming wooden balconies, along with the picturesque streets, have been meticulously preserved through the centuries.

The central market square, place Ludovic Trarieux (named after the famous 19th century French human rights advocate, who was born in Aubeterre), is the perfect spot to savor a delightful aperitif, lunch, or dinner in the shade of the plane trees, on the various terraces of nearby cafés and restaurants. It is on this lovely spot that every Sunday, a modest yet cozy market unfolds, offering a taste of local specialties from traders who are eager to share their culinary delights. 

The village is a treasure trove of boutiques, artists’ studios, and unique shops where one can acquire an original souvenir or simply absorb the delightful atmosphere.

A visit to the ‘Eglise monolithe Saint Jean’ should not be missed. Monos lithos, literally ‘one stone’, so this imposing structure (or rather excavation) is carved entirely from the rock. With its vault more than 20 metres high, this church is the highest of its kind in the whole of Western Europe, attracting pilgrims from all over the world on their way to Santiago de Compostella since the 12th Century. 

The church of Saint Jacques, located at the opposite side of the village, with its impressive Romanesque portal, is also a sight not to be missed by today’s pilgrim.

The Dronne river, which flows peacefully at the foot of the village, known for its scenic beauty, winding through charming countryside, limestone cliffs, and lush green landscapes, offers plenty of leisure opportunities in summer. You can go kayaking and canoeing or just blissfully enjoy an afternoon of swimming and lazing on the beach.

Aubeterre-sur-Dronne has become one of the most beautiful towns in the region and, despite its success with many a tourist, has managed to preserve its authenticity… 

As we bid farewell to the tourist season, the essence of this charming village lingers, promising more discoveries in the upcoming chapters of our exploration in South-Charente.

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